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Citadel Park

07/15/2016

The Parc de la Ciutadella is a large green space covering some 30 hectares/75 acres on the northeastern edge of the old town. It was laid out on the site of the razed citadel, which Philip V had built to suppress the rebellious population and to safeguard the harbor district. Here can be found pathways, flower-covered terraces, waterfalls and monuments. One of the park's most pleasant attractions is the "Umbracle", a structure of brick and wood with the interior filled with tropical plants. As well as museums and the zoo, some local government offices (including the Parlament de Catalunya) are situated here.

In 1714, after a 13 month long siege, Barcelona fell to the army of Philips V during the war of the Spanish Succession. In order to keep firm control over Barcelona, King Philips V built the largest fortress in Europe, a star-shaped citadel or 'Ciutadella'. A large part of the Ribera district was demolished to make way for this fortress. Only 30 years later was the neighborhood rebuilt at another location as the 'Barceloneta'.

The much-hated symbol of central government was demolished between 1869 and 1878 after the Catalan general Prim handed over the citadel to the city. Only three buildings survived: the chapel, the Governor's palace and the arsenal, now home to the Catalan Parliament.


Already in 1872 works to convert the area into a central urban park had started, but it progressed slowly. In 1885 the terrain was designated as the site of the 1888 Universal Exhibition, giving a boost to the development of the park. Many buildings were constructed, several of which have survived. The 'Castel dels Tres Dragons' is the most notable of these. It was built to resemble a medieval castle and served as a restaurant during the 1888 exhibition. It currently houses the zoological and geology collections of the Museu de Ciències Naturals (Natural Science Museum).

The 30ha (74acre) large park is also home to the Parc Zoologic, the Barcelona Zoo. About 7.500 animals representing 400 different species can be found here in the zoo, which occupies about 13 hectare of the park. Some of the zoo's most famous animals include gorillas, orang-utans, dolphins, cheetahs, wolves, snow leopards, crocodiles and alligators. The zoo's former star attraction, an albino gorilla known as Snow Flake, died in 2004. The park also features a small lake, a popular spot where you can hire a rowing boat.

Today, Parc de la Ciutadella is one of the places with the most leisure and cultural activities in the city. A good example of this is the jazz programme held every year between June and September. The park also contains museums, the Parliament of Catalonia and numerous sculptures.

The layout of the park is rather eclectic, winding, more natural lines combining with more classical, geometric shapes. Notable features of the landscaping include the large, monumental waterfall, a lake on which you can sail in small rowing boats, and a summerhouse for music.

Another major feature of the park is the Plaça d'Armes, in front of the parliament building, which was designed in 1916 by the French civil engineer J.C.N. Forestier and the highlight of which is El desconsol, a sculpture of a female nude by Josep Llimona in the middle of the pond at the center of the plaça.

Parc de la Ciutadella is a very welcoming place, with lots of grass and big avenues, like Passeig dels Àlbers, parallel to Passeig de Pujades, and Passeig dels Tillers, lined on both sides with lindens ("til.ers" in Catalan), and flowerbeds surrounded by bushes. Everywhere there are benches to sit quietly and relax or read a while, as well as spots where, in winter or summer, you can find young people lying in the sun.

Passeig dels Tillers starts at the park's most spectacular entrance, at the end of a marvelous walk that begins with Passeig de Sant Joan, continues along Passeig de Lluís Companys, at the head of which stands the magnificent Arc de Triomf, to the park gates, just in front of the Rius i Taulet monument. This is one of the most attractive urban sights in Barcelona.

Parc de la Ciutadella is rich in plant life, all the more noteworthy given the fact that much of it was introduced at the end of the 19th century. There are many trees, palms and bushes which are identified so visitors can recognize the main species or the most exotic, of which there are a lot.

The numerous signs mean you will be able to identify planes, Australian oaks, nettle trees, lindens, Canary palms, Corsican pines, blue palms, date palms, orange trees, magnolias, Australian pines, silk trees, Norwegian blacks, cypress trees and strawberry trees, among others.

Two places of interest for botany enthusiasts, which are also beautiful, are the shaded garden, designed by Josep Fontseré, and the greenhouse, designed by Josep Amargós.

Over one hundred species of birds can be found in the park, including a large colony of grey herons, the biggest in Catalonia today. Elegant and majestic, it is easy to spot them flying around the park, a good place for ornithology enthusiasts.

In 1951 it was declared a monument of historical and artistic interest and is now considered to be an open-air museum, given the profusion and quality of its sculptures by Frederic Marès, Eusebi Arnau, Josep Clarà, Josep Llimona, Pau Gargallo, Manuel Fuxà and others.

As well as the work of these great sculptors, there are popular sculptures, like the big stone mammoth of 1907 and La dama del paraigües, above the ornamental fountain, which for many years was one of Barcelona's landmarks. Of the buildings built for the Universal Exhibition of 1888, there remains the Castell dels Tres Dragons, designed by Domenech i Muntaner, originally a restaurant and now the Museum of Zoology.

Another building which catches the eye, with its neoclassical style, is the Martorell, or Geology, Museum. It was designed by Antoni Rovira i Tries in 1870 and was part of Fontseré's original plans.

Parc de la Ciutadella is closely linked to Barcelona's history. It is on the site where, in 1715, the Spanish King, Felipe V, following the city's rendition on 11 September 1714 and his victory in the War of Succession, had a large fortress, or citadel, built. To provide the necessary land, the walls at the extreme south end of the city were demolished, along with more than a thousand houses in the Ribera neighbourhood.

Almost a century and a half later, in 1869, in an effort to win the support of Barcelona's industrial bourgeoisie, General Prim, whose equestrian statue we can now see in the park, handed the fortress over to Barcelona, on the condition that the land be used to build a public park.

Getting back this land meant Barcelona, becoming more and more crowded as a result of its industrial development, could create a green space it really needed. In fact it needed more places to "be able to breathe", as was well expressed in the slogan for Josep Fontseré's plan: "Gardens are to a city what lungs are to the human body." Today this seems a rather obvious criteria for urban planning but, at the end of the 19th century, it was not so evident.

All that is left of the old military fortress is the chapel, the governor's palace, now the secondary school IES Verdaguer, and the building occupied by the arsenal, which is now the seat of the Parlament of Catalonia.

There are several statues in the park, the ones that stand out most are a large stone mammoth and a metallic cat. A more conventional statue commemorates General Prim, who made the demolition of the citadel possible.

At the northern corner of the park is the Cascada, a triumphal arch with waterfall and fountain built for the 1888 Universal exhibition. The baroque construction designed by Josep Fontsère - who was responsible for the conversion of the citadel site into a park - took six years to complete. The design was loosely based on the Trevi Fountain in Rome. The architect was assisted by Antoni Gaudí, at the time still a student.

Parc de la Ciutadella is perfect place to take a rest after an intense tour through Barcelona. Here you can sit for some time, take a look around and enjoy the sights. You can get there via direct flight to Barcelona or to Girona, Reus or Lleida –Alguaire.