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Mihai Voda Church

07/21/2016

Mihai Vodă was originally built in 1601. After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from 1827-38. In 1985 it was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks. Mihai Voda Monastery is part of the oldest buildings in Bucharest, preserved until today. It was built on the ruins of an old church, in 1594, founded by Michael the Brave. Originally it was surrounded by a high wall, with a fortress, but with the passing of the years the building had several functions: residence, military hospital, school of medicine, State Archives.

There is a legend connected to this monastery, according to which Viteazu Michael made a promise before God that he will build a monastery if He at His turn will get the death penalty by beheading that was to take place soon.

Mihai Voda Church is one of the churches which have been relocated during the major demolition works of the 1980s. The church and its Belfry were moved away from the hill where they had been sitting for almost 400 years, and were transported over a distance of 289m and 6.2m lower, which was considered at the time a major technological performance. Today, the Belfry rests unusually behind the church and both are hidden from view by apartment buildings, constructed afterwards.

Legend has it that Mihai Voda, when he wasn’t yet the Prince of Wallachia, but still represented a threat to the throne, was caught to be executed. On the way to the execution place, he was allowed to pray in a church. The future Prince made a vow that if he would get away alive, he would build a church, and so it happened. The Mihai Voda Church is one of the oldest in Bucharest, a historical and medieval art monument.

To make way for his civic center Ceausescu ordered the demolition of all the buildings located in and around Unirii Square. The Brancovenesc Hospital, the Sf. Vineri Church, the Sf. Spiridon Church, the Vacaresti Monastery and many others historic buildings and monuments as well as lots of private houses were virtually wiped out. I don't know due to which circumstances, but it happened that a few old churches were sparred from demolition. However, they were moved from their initial location, and hidden from sight behind the grey apartment complexes of the new civic center. Mihai Voda is one of these churches. It was moved 280m on rails and dumped in a back yard behind some blocks of flats. Once a beautiful monastery, built in 1591 by the great voivode Michael the Brave, its medieval cloister and old buildings were demolished and only the church and the gate tower survived. I don't remember how the monastery looked before Ceausescu's ordered it being moved (and parts of it destroyed), I was very little then. But the church seems to blossom and every time I visit it looks better and better despite its sad location. One of my favourite architectural details is the beautiful sculpted frame of the main door. Don't forget to take a look at it right after the landing at the airport.